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Another in my series on local history. Garden subscribers will inevitably get these and I hope won’t mind. If you are interested in the local history you can get any new posts by subscribing. (But you will also get the garden blog posts too!) There will inevitably be some overlap between different posts, which I hope won’t irritate too much.

The Veddw is a small settlement in the countryside, surrounded by woodland. Don’t be misled by the idea of ‘villages’ in Monmouthshire – it is predominantly a landscape of small settlements of about a dozen or so houses. The villages are relatively recently created and reinforced by 20th century planning preoccupations.

This is Upper Veddw. The houses are now much enlarged but the originals were, as they are now, scattered down the lane.
And a broader view with other scatters visible.

At some point the Veddw may have been taken out of the woodland, but the Ordnance Survey sketch map, from 1812, calls that which is now Upper Veddw or Upper Fedw, ‘Haddon brake’.

Place names are dodgy things, always ready to deceive the imaginative and unwary, but I take this to indicate heathland from Old English hǣð, and hill from Old English dun, (see here and also The Landscape of Place-Names, Gelling and Cole 2003 p164). The brake would be rough land or field. You may have trouble reading ‘Haddon brake’ on the reproduction of the sketch map below, but believe me, I have examined it minutely. Please don’t ask me why this bit of Wales has an Old English name slipping in, but do always remember that we are on the English/Welsh border here, and that impinges on a great many things, as we shall see.

We went for a walk today to find Haddon brake, along the interesting old hollow way which it appears to be south of.

And remarkably the trees in what would have been the brake are predominantly hardwood:

on the north side

whereas to the other side of the lane they are predominantly conifer.

on the south side

I’ll write more about this holloway in another post.

The name Haddon brake has totally vanished when the first Ordnance Survey is published in 1830. But you’ll find many other ‘brakes’ referred to here.

Ordnance Survey Map 1830. The holloway I’m referring to runs diagonally down, meeting the main road at the righthand side of the map. The writing now rather illegibly says Fedw New Wood.
Here’s a bigger version in case that helps.

The ‘Green’ which you can just make out below Haddon brake on the Sketch Map is the end bit of ‘Devauden Green’ which has now become ‘Devauden’. And that is a name with its own fascination. I expect it conjures up an image of bucolic locals dancing round a maypole, but that’s not quite it. In fact, it’s more interesting than that – I have no doubt it refers to the existence of a squatter settlement.

Devauden Green now.
From ‘The stranger’s illustrated guide to Chepstow and its neighbourhood’ 1843 price 2 shillings and sixpence. You would perhaps have those views from the top of The Criga.

Paul Courtney (in his thesis ‘The Rural Landscape of Eastern and Lower Gwent; 1983, page 345) says “In addition to village greens, the term ‘green’ was often applied to small areas of common or wood……Such greens often gave their name to small squatter settlements. ….These take the form of small scatters of cottages often at road junctions or crossroads.”

I have also come across the use ‘Veddw Green’. I will shortly write a piece about the squatters and the Veddw.

Devauden Village Green. (each word with its own interest) Coal Lane is just out of shot at bottom right. This was a busy road junction, turning to mud in inclement weather and causing traffic to spread out trying to find firm ground.

Meanwhile – the name ‘Devauden’ is popularly supposed to mean something to do with beech trees. However, I heard differently from the much respected Frank Olding. He thinks as follows:

‘The original Welsh version was “Dyfawden”/”Defawden” with its root in Medieval Welsh “defawd”, Modern Welsh “defod” (custom, manner, fashion”) – therefore “custom land” or “customary land”, though as the Dictionary of Welsh Place-names says: “what defod . . . signified is a mystery, unless it be an obscure legal term”.  The meaning seems to me likely to be something like “land held by custom” or “land held by customary tenure”.’

So that still leaves us with a few questions, as yet unanswered, about what custom, when and whose?

The entrance to Coal Lane to the right. Sad about the closed pub but we are all hoping to see it back in business soon.

There’s an interesting lane which leaves Devauden just to the right of the ex pub, called variously Coal Lane, Coal Road and surprisingly Cole Lane. The ‘coal’ refers to charcoal which was brought from Wentwood down Coal Lane on mules to the forge down near Tintern.

This traffic, in addition to the traffic from Chepstow to Monmouth and Raglan coming from round both sides of Chepstow Park Wood, would account for the existence of the current village green, which would, before tarmac, have been a vast mud patch for much of the time.

The steep hill between the Veddw and Devauden is known as Trap Pitch. I don’t know why ‘Trap’ but Pitch is simply a steep hill, and it certainly is that.

Next time I’ll write about the name Veddw. That’ll cause trouble……

Anne Wareham

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